Bathing Bearded Dragons - How To Do This By Florian Ross

Bathing Bearded Dragons is one of the parts your lizard pet will enjoy much and help it remaining healthy. Many bearded dragons owner don't know how to bath and keep a dragon clean, so this should give you the basics about.

Many Beardie keepers come to appreciate the benefits of bathing their lizards. Not only do most Bearded Dragons prefer to potty in the tub (making it very easy for their keepers to clean up after them and disinfect the surfaces). Baths also help during shedding, keeping the loosening skin soft and pliable, ensuring its easy separation.

It seems to be that some Beardies are afraid of the bathtub, whether or not it has water. Some do fine in the empty bathtub, but freak out when you start to run water. So, you should expect that when first introduced to the bathtub your dragon could wriggle and resist. If this is the case you should try a tap or just use a shower. Dragons usually enjoy a bath under running water in the wash basin or bath tub. So probably they will love this experience.

Some Beardies are comfortable bathing in the sink or the bath tub and others may not like bath time at all. You can try placing a see-through Rubbermaid container on your countertop and gently placing your Beardie inside. He may feel more comfortable resting on your hand while it is submerged in the water. Or you could try rolling up a wash cloth and letting him rest his arms on it. They need to feel secure or they will never enjoy bath time.

While bathing your Bearded Dragon, the bath water should ideally be warm on your wrist and not hot, much like bath water for a small child. Make the water only as deep as your Beardie’s chest or half way up their front arms. You should never leave your Beardie unattended in the bath because accidents only take a second to happen.

The ideal temperature for the bath water should be around 95-99oF and remember, if it feels too warm to you then it's definitely too hot for them. Do pick up your Beardie out of the bath water if he decides to poop in it. After bathing gently clean your dragon with a hand towel.

Reptile and amphibian cages and equipment should not be cleaned in the kitchen. Sinks or tubs used for cleaning equipment or bathing reptiles should be disinfected with a bleach solution afterwards.

Bathing is an important part in keeping a healthy dragon and regular bathing will help improve the Beardie’s overall hydration status and keep the Beardie clean. It also helps to relax the muscles thus making it easier for them to go to the bathroom.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=154853&ca=Pets

Miniature Horses, Ponies - What's The Difference? By Candice Sabrina

When most of us start out learning about horses, we are told that a horse is a member of Equus caballus that is over 14 hands high (a hand, we quickly learned, is 10 cm). A pony, on the other hand, was defined as a member of the same species that was less than 14 hands. Now, miniature horses are always much smaller than 14 hands, so why are they called miniature horses rather than ponies?

The answer lies in the proportions. Most ponies are cobby in build (rounded and stocky - think of drawings by the cartoonist Thelwell), while many breeders of miniature horses (often affectionately referred to as 'minis') prefer to breed for proportions that are more like that of a 'regular' horse. The American Miniature Horse Registry (AMHR) suggests that a 'mini' is ideally 'a small, sound well-balanced horse' that, if photographed without anything to give a sense of size, should look identical to a full-sized horse.

As expected, size matters. The AMHR recognizes two categories of miniature horses: those in the 'A' division are less than 82 cm (34 inches) at the withers, which is defined as being the last hair of the mane, while the “B” category covers horses 34–38 inches at the withers. The American Miniature Horse Association, however, does not recognize horses over 34 inches. A miniature horse is always measured in centimeters or inches, but never in hands.
If they were measured in hands, the largest 'minis' would be around 8 or 9 hands (by way of comparison, an average Shetland pony measures 10 hands). 'Minis' come in all color types, including the more exotic types like pinto and palomino as well as the more mundane bays, greys and chestnuts. Whatever size of color they are, miniature horses have been in the world for a surprisingly long time.

In the Renaissance and Restoration periods, they were occasionally found in private menageries as curiosities. At the other end of the economic spectrum, miniature horses also had their uses as pit ponies hauling coal in the mines.
There are also some who hold the view that some of the fossilized horse remains classified as ancestors of Equus caballus are actually the fossilized remains of 'minis.' There may be some uncertainty about the dating, but the fossils certainly have the right size and skeleton structure.

Since the 20th century, miniature horses have been developed as a breed and refined to the animals that they are today, and this work is ongoing. The most widely known breed of miniature horse is the Falabella, which originated in Argentina.

'Minis' are still kept as curiosities in petting zoos and farm parks, but they also have a wider range of roles. They are, of course, unsuited as riding animals, because of their size, but are often shown competitively and can be used for light harness work. Their most noteworthy work is therapeutic, as they are often used to provide interaction and comfort to the elderly, and in working with autistic children.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=154684&ca=Pets

Bearded Dragons Foods And Feeding - The Seven Foods You Must Keep Away From Your Bearded Dragon By Florian Ross

Feeding bearded dragons is quite simple and should give no problem to any bearded dragon owner. The type of food you feed your dragon can vary depending on its age. At the earlier stages of life a dragon will need more protein and fewer greens, but it is advisable to introduce greens as early as you can. If you shun these, your pet may not take to them later as it matures. Bearded Dragons are omnivorous - they eat bugs and vegetation.

Your dragon will feed only if both the food you give it and its body temperature are right and will not show any appetite if the conditions are wrong and even if it would show an appetite and feeds, it cannot digest the food if the temperature is wrong.

In good condition your bearded dragon should be a hearty eater and considering the importance of various conditions that influence its feeding and digestion, here is a short nutrition checklist:

- Pay attention to the health of insects you store for feeding your dragon.

- Wash greens / vegetables thoroughly.

- Adequate light and heat - both are vital for your bearded dragon's satisfactory food intake.

- Try and hand-feed insects to your dragon.

- Clear uneaten greens / vegetables from dragon's cage daily. Clean dish.

- Guard against vitamin A overdose.

- Gut-load insects before you feed them to your dragon.

- Choose younger prey because of its lower chitin content. - Supplement normal food with mineral (calcium) and vitamin additions.

- Make feeding age-appropriate.

- Chop greens and vegetables finely.

- Fasten suitable larger greens to a peg for your dragon to nibble.

- Match size of prey to size of your dragon's mouth. (Prey size half the width of the mouth)

- Offer water to your dragon through spraying, misting (greens and vegetables) and in dish.

Beside these, always remember to never-ever feed your dragon the items not recommended them (see the list bellow).

What not to feed your Beardie:

If you know what food you should be feeding your bearded dragon, you should also know that there are some things that you shouldn't feed them. If you accidentally feed your bearded dragon something from them, that is not poisonous, just watch him or her carefully for signs of illness. However, you'll want to call or take him to the vet immediately if he or she has ingested something poisonous. Here is a short lis what to watch for:

- Do not feed wild insects or insects found around the house to your Bearded Dragon. They may carry diseases that could be deadly to your pet.

- Lightning bugs (also known as fireflies) are deadly poisonous (they contain phosphorous).

- Avoid also spinach as calcium binds to it and will not be digested by your animal.

- Avoid feed citrus fruits (oranges, lemons, grapefruits).

- Do not feed dog or cat food to your Dragon.

- Carrots should only be used as a treat though due to the high amounts of vitamin A. Any food with high amounts of vitamin A should be avoided, as reptiles do not absorb a lot of vitamin A.

- NEVER iceberg lettuce.

You should also take care not to over feed your dragon. Especially the adults will usually eat much more than they need and this can get them to overweight.

Even if bearded dragons are omnivorous eaters you should remember these simple rules that will help you feed your dragon.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=154855&ca=Pets

Bearded Dragons Shedding - Is Skin Exfoliation A Problem? By Florian Ross

A beardie sheds its skin regularly. In order for this to happen, he requires the correct conditions. In captivity these conditions are aided by a basking lamp and warm environment. Together with exfoliation would be the sun lamp. As I mentioned, dragons love to bask in the sun. To create this environment, we give them a basking lamp under which they sit for hours. (Don’t forget natural sun is very important for him - being a desert creature, he needs large amounts of Vitamin D). The skin comes off in large patches. Don't help them to pull it off--you can damage the new skin underneath. Letting them soak in shallow warm (98 deg) water or misting them helps shedding.

Exfoliating dragon

Going into shed is not a real fun thing for beardies. Most get rather cranky during this time, with some becoming hissy or snappy, objecting to being held or touched. The best thing to do is to respect their ill-feeling as much as possible. Some beardies will greatly reduce their food intake during a shed, others stop eating altogether until after they have shed. Offer a nice warm bath to help keep the skin moist and offer fluids for beardies that are off food.

Problems during Shedding

A problem shed is a shed that isn't happening like a normal, healthy shed should. Adult beardies normally shed in pieces, a problem shed would be where it is taking too long, or where skin is retained in problem areas, such as around toes, spikes, and tails. A problem shed is a sign of an even greater, underlying problem. When a problem shed occurs, or one that is too slow to start or finish, you need to figure out why it is happening and correct the problem.

- First, analyze the environment, diet, etc. Are their any signs of pain and discomfort?

- Correct the problem (adjust heat, lighting, photoperiods, diet, etc.).

- If the beardie has started shedding, but not properly completed a shed, you can help it along. Soak them in a tub of warm water (95-99 degrees F) for 10-15 minutes, then begin gently rubbing their skin. Make sure the skin is removed from their toes, spikes, and tails.

- If there is still retained shed in these problem areas, wrap the wet beardie in a warm damp towel, then wrap that in a dry towel. Sit down with it for 5 minutes or so, then expose a small area of the crest, or a foot, and begin to gently work at the retained skin.

- If there are several layers or one very resistant layer, rub some mineral oil into the area while the beardie is still wet from the bath. This will help lock the moisture from the bath into that area. Do this for a couple of days (bath followed by the mineral oil worked into the skin); this should get enough water wicked up between the layers of skin to make them very easy to remove.

You might wonder as to where all the shedded skin has gone. Some beardies will occasionally eat some of their shed. This is not a problem as long as the beardie is maintained in a clean environment.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=154856&ca=Pets

Guinea Pigs Foods And Feeding - The Seven Foods You Must Always Keep Away From A Guinea Pig By Florian Ross

What should you avoid to feed a guinea pig?

If you know what food you should be feeding your guinea pig, you should also know that there are some things that you shouldn't feed them.

If you accidentally feed your guinea pig something from this list that is not poisonous, just watch him or her carefully for signs of illness. However, you'll want to call or take him to the vet immediately if he or she has ingested something poisonous.

- Do not feed your guinea pig iceberg lettuce. While most leafy greens do provide an excellent source of Vitamin C for your guinea pig, iceberg lettuce does not. You're better off purchasing kale or cabbage for your pet.

- Do not feed your guinea pig long stalks of celery. Those stringy pieces that can get wound up in your garbage disposal are just as hard for your guinea pig to digest. If your guinea pig likes celery, you need to cut it up into smaller pieces before you give it to them.

- Do not feed your guinea pig any shelled nuts or seeds. Your guinea pig can easily choke on the pieces of the shell. Also, be careful about the guinea pig treat sticks that are sold in pet stores because these often contain shelled seeds.

- Do not feed your guinea pig rhubarb, beans, or potatoes with green spots. These are all poisonous to your guinea pig.

- Do not feed your guinea pig certain types of plants. While some plants, like dandelions and clover, are safe for your guinea pig, many others are poisonous to him or her. Daffodils, hyacinths, poppy, and buttercups are some of those too avoid.

- Do not feed your guinea pig any dairy products. Although some people may suggest feeding their guinea pigs yogurt in order to clean out their digestive systems, you should avoid feeding any dairy product to your guinea pig because they are lactose intolerant, which means their bodies can not properly process daily products. Also, excess calcium will cause guinea pigs to develop kidney and/or bladder stones.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=155264&ca=Pets